The tale of how they came to be is as follows.

One of the first people had a daughter called Kerana. She was beautiful but prone to daydreaming and wandering off alone into the forest.

While doing this she was spotted by Tau the spirit of evil who decided he must have her for his own.

He watched her for many days before following her back to her village. There Tau took hold of Kerana so that he might drag her away into the forest.

Angatupyry the spirit of good saw what was happening and rushed to help Kerana. He was though defeated in combat and Tau was able to escape with his prize.

The moon goddess Araci had seen what had happened. She was unable save Kerana and sought instead to ensure that Tau gained no benefit from the forced union.

To that end Araci laid a curse upon all the children born of Tau and Kerana.

The curse was that they would have seven children and that those seven would all be monsters cursed in different ways.

In addition she gave the children seven griefs. Fear, pain, despair, hunger, thirst, disease and death.

And seven vices. Envy, laziness, green, avarice, drunkeness, hate and anger.

Then finally seven afflictions. Theft, injustice, unhappiness, famine, flood, fire and war.

The children were then to wander the earth as monsters and as manifesations of those griefs, vices and afflictions.

Teju-Jagua

Teju-Jagua was the first of the children of Tau and Kerana.

He was given the shape of a giant lizard with seven dogs heads on snake like necks. From the eyes of those seven heads Teju-Jagua could shoot fire.

Fierce as he may look he is timid and slow moving preferring to hide away out of sight.

This draws him towards dark caves which in addition to buried treasure he guards.

Mbio-Tui

The second born child was Mbio-Tui.

In shape he has been given the form of a large snake with the head of a giant parrot. From his mouth extends a blood red forked tongue.

The gaze of Mbio-Tui brings bad luck to all that it falls upon and his squawk fills all who hear it with fear.

Mbio-Tui is to be found in swamps and other such damp dark places.

Living there he guards the wetlands and all aquatic life that lives in them.

Monai

The next of the children was Monai.

He was given the form of a giant snake with two colourful straight horns that act as antennae.

Monai is to be found in open fields as well as swamps and estuaries. He is able to climb trees to hunt prey such as birds using his antennae to hypnotize them.

He was the only one of the monsters to be destroyed as he also liked to steal from villages and hide what he took in caves.

Doing so he saw a woman named Porasy and fell in love with her.

Monai wanted to marry Porasy but she tricked him saying that she would but first she wanted to see inside the cave.

This was agreed to the night before the wedding and once Monai and Porasy were inside the cave the other villagers blocked it with a great stone and set it on fire.

For her sacrifice Araci turned the spirit of Porasy into a bright point of light that would shine at night for all to see.

Jasy-Jatere

The next child was Jasy-Jatere whos name means piece of the moon.

He is the only one to have been given a fully human form. He is a small blond haired child, naked but always carrying a wand or staff.

Jasy-Jatere lives in amongst the trees near villages and settlements.

Normally invisible he guards hidden treasure and the yerba mate plants.

He is also Lord of the Siesta.

Coming into a village Jasy-Jatere will make himself visible to childern who are playing outside during the siesta. Any he finds he kidnapps and takes back to his forest home.

There they are fed on fruit and honey and become his playthings until he sends them back to their homes foolish and empty headed. Some are otherswise unharmed, but some have their eyes picked out.

For fear of Jasy-Jatere all children are taught by their mothers that the siesta is a time for sleeping and being indoors.

Kurupi

The fifth child was Kurupi.

His form is that of a short, ugly man covered from head to toe in thick, dirty hair.

The most noticable feature of Kurupi is his giant penis. It is so large he winds it around his body three times like a belt.

This giant penis is also prehensile, able to unwind and extend through doors and windows to impregnate women sleeping inside their houses.

Due to this Kurupi is used to explain away unexpected pregnancies.

It has made this short ugly creature a symbol of fertility and sexuality.

To try an ensure that he is not just blamed for bad things Kurupi also is the guardian of all the forest animals, protecting and watching over them.

Ao-Ao

The sixth child of Tau and Kerana is a much wilder beast.

Ao-Ao has the form of a giant wild boar. He has long fangs and sharp claws.

His only food is human flesh which he actively hunts.

If someone is being hunted by Ao-Ao the only escape is to climb a high palm tree.

Any other tree he will circle howling before knocking down and then devouring whoever had been hidding in it.

He is the the guardian of the hills and mountains over which he roams.

Luison

The last of the childern is Luision who is the most fearsom of them all.

His form is that of a wolfman. Half wolf, half man.

He lives in cemeteries and burial grounds and will eat only dead and rotting flesh.

Invisibility is one of his powers and if Luison passes between someones legs they to will become Luison.

Darkness and death are his abodes and he is the Lord of Night and Death.

In a Paraguayan family a seventh son will also become Luison.

With the arrival of the Spanish Luison aquired many of the features of European werewolves such as biting his victims and an attraction to the moon, but these are recent additions to his character.

In Summary

These seven monsters endure as a central feature of the culture and mythology of Paraguay.

No one in Paraguay is unaware of their stories and in many ways they remain as real as any of the other creatures that roam the countryside.

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The Guarani in common with the others in the region had no written language. Theirs was a purely oral language with traditions and folklore passed by word of mouth from one generation to the next.

Without any written texts there was distinct danger that upon the arrival of the Spanish much of their culture could have been lost.

It was however saved. In a large part as a result of the Jesuits taking the indigenous people from their scattered forest homes and relocating them into purpose built settlements.

Here in addition to teaching the Guarani music and Christianity the Jesuits took care to see that the traditional myths and customs were recorded and preserved.

It was inevitable that through this process their would be some loss and alteration but the great bulk of the pre contact culture was preserved.

These tales and the figures who feature in them form the bedrock around which the modern culture of Paraguay has been formed.

The first of these is the Guarani creation myth. Their description of how the world came to be.

This begins at a time when all was silence and before there was any life.

At that distant time all that existed was a universe filled with nothing more than the twinkling light of a multiude of stars. Among these and across the voids of space travelled the two first entities.

First of these was the creator god Tupa. As well as being the creator he was also god of the sun and the bringer of light.

The second of the pair was his divine counterpart. This was Arasy the moon goddess.

Although the only beings in the universe and destined to be together at first they were not. For a long time they sought each other out, chasing endlessly around the stars.

Finally the moment came when at last their paths crossed. At that moment amongst the stars they were married and joined together in partnership forever.

Once that was done the next day the divine couple descended to Earth. The place of their landing was upon the top of a hill outside Aregua in what would one day become Paraguay.

Seeing an empty land Tupa the creator then set about the task of filling it.

First he created water which formed streams and then river which filled the lakes and then the seas.

Next to bring life to the land that had not covered by water Tupa created the plants. These grew and grew until a vast forest covered the Earth.

This new land was though still silent and so next Tupa set about creating the animals to fill it. These he created in every shape and size to fill the Earth with life.

With the whole Earth now alive all that remained to be added were creatures in the form of himself and Arasy. Humans who would inherit the world he had created.

To do this Tupa took some clay which he mixed with juice from the yerba mate plant, the blood of a nighthawk, leaves from various plants and finally a centipede.

This Tupa moulded into the forms of himself and Arasy, a man and a woman, and left to dry under the hot sun.

Once the figures had dried Tupa breathed life into them. The male he named Rupave, father of the people, and the female Sypave, mother of the people.

These first members of the human race he told to go live in peace and multiply.

That done Tupa then had two final forms to bring into being. Good and evil, for without them there can be no right or wrong.

These figures were named Angatupyry for the good and Tua for the evil. Once brought into being they were let loose upon the world.

Rupave and Sypave lived good peaceful lives as Tupa had requested and had many children. Principal among these were their three sons.

These were Tume Arandu who was the wisest of all, Marangatu who was the greatest leader and Japeusa who was a trickster bringing all humankinds negative traits into the world.

His devious ways eventually caused his downfall and for that Japeusa was turned turned into a crab, forced forever to move sideways.

As for Marangatu he had a daughter who was the most beautiful in the world.

Her name was Kerana and word of he beauty reached Tua. Being created as evil to do evil he wanted nothing less than to have Kerana for himself.

To that end he stole her away to be his wife.

That tale is for another day, but for now it is enough to say that the children brought forth by their union were cursed and became the seven monsters of Guarani mythology.

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This is a monument to the Paraguayan harp the national instrument of Paraguay.

The statue is made of metal and being positioned along the road leading from the airport to Asuncion city centre is one of the first images of Paraguay many visitors will see.

It was built as both a monument to the country’s national instrument and to pay homage to Felix Perez Cardozo.

Felix Perez Cardozo (1908-1952) was one of the best know harpists and a composer of many pieces of music for it.

The monument itself was made by the artist Junapi Pistilli.

On the day of the installation of the monument a large festival of Paraguayan harp music was held on the lawn in front of it.

The Monument to the Paraguayan Harp has become a popular place to visit and take photos. There is even a stand to hold the phones of those wishing to take a selfie with the harp.

Roots of the Paraguayan Harp can be traced back to the arrival of Christian missionaries with the Spanish.

They sought to bring religion along with some of their European culture to the Guarani of Paraguay.

It was the Franciscans who first noticed the natural musical talents of the Guarani. They taught them an number of instruments to be played alongside the singing of hymns. Of all these it was in the harp that the Guarani found the greatest mastery.

Once the missionaries departed the Guarani did not disguard all they had bought with them. The harp they retained and it soon found a central role in their culture.

To their myths and legends it gave a musical backing. Thus becoming as interwoven with their lives as the tales it’s players told.

The Paraguayan harp had also by this time developed its distinctive look and sound. This makes it a little different from the European harps such as the Irish one from which it is ultimately derived.

A wooden Paraguayan harp stands about 5 feet tall and weighing about 10 pounds is somewhat lighter than a European harp. This makes it easier for it’s owner to carry from one performance to the next.

All Paraguayan harps though are not made equal. In terms of strings a harp may have a few as 32 or as many as 46.

These strings are lightly strung and plucked with the fingernails.

For a long time the sound of the harp resonated solely within Paraguay’s borders. Then between the 1930s and 1950s it broke out beyond Paraguay. During that time a number of professional harpist took the sound of the Paraguayan harp all around the world.

This heightened exposure did not though dilute the cultural significance of the harp. The tunes these performers played remained the ones they had bought with them from Paraguay.

A few of these tunes such as Pajaro Campana and La Missonera have become staples of the harp and are preformed whenever there is a recital.

Most tunes though remain unwritten. These are passed orally from master to student with anyone free to make their own additions.

The great majority of these tunes covers themes of national identity and Paraguayan pride. Accordingly there is often a need for new tunes to be written for subjects as diverse as football teams and politicians.

Styles of music for which Paraguayan harp music is most often written are Polka Paraguayas and Guaranies. Both of which provide music to dance to. The soundtrack to many traditional Paraguayan dances.

For a long time the playing of the harp was very much a male occupation. Even now bands of travelling musicians will almost always be all male.

It was not until the late 20th century that woman took up harp playing. Very different from the image of the female European harpist.

Now though although harp playing remains mostly a male preserve there are a number of women playing harps to the highest standard.

Almost no event from a family gathering to a national festival is complete without a Paraguayan harp and the Paraguayan dancing that often accompanies it.

Being such an important part of Paraguayan culture it is only natural that it has a day given over to it every year. 9th June is the National Day of the Harp.

If you are seeking the true sound of Paraguay you need look no further than that of the Paraguayan harp.

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That was held on Sunday in Paraguari. A festival of food.

For the first time the town was hosting an International Food Festival. Judging by the crowds it will not be the last.

Paraguari is a good sized town with all the facilities a town of it’s size would require. That includes venues suitable for housing events. These include a number of football grounds and such like.

The food festival was not held in one of those but instead at a new sports complex behind the old railway station. Here there was a large open but roofed area and next door an indoors sports hall.

It was the outdoor space that was used for the festival. The indoors hall was hosting a chess tournament but was used by some performers for their final preparations.

As I arrived I saw just how many people had come out to Paraguari for a Sunday afternoon. The streets and every bit of grass around the venue had been turned into a temporary car park.

Free parking of course along with free entry to the festival.

On top of all those arriving by there own means there was also an open topped bus travelling backwards and forwards between Paraguari and Asuncion all day bringing out groups of excited tourists.

I passed the bus just outside Paraguari. It made a very unusual sight out in the Paraguayan countryside.

Once I had parked up I headed inside to join the crowds and find out exactly what was going on.

And there were crowds, all sampling flavours from around the world.

The first thing I passed was a stall crushing sugar cane to extract the juice. That produces and cold refreshing drink known here as Mosto.

After seeing the Mosto stall at work I headed into the open air hall to see what was there. By the sheer number of people walking around with food in their hands it was clear the answer was going to be snack foods.

It may have been an International Festival but it would have been unthinkable for there not to have been Paraguayan food on offer.

The stalls selling that were on the whole along one side of the hall. Those had on them the usual Paraguayan barbecue as well as the more uniquely Paraguayan foods such as Sopa and Chipa.

Around the remaining sides of the hall stalls offering foods from all across the world had been laid out.

International foods are not a common sight in Paraguay. Often they involve considerable time and effort to obtain or are simply not available. Yet here they all were for everyone to experience.

The line up of flag covered stalls started with one from Israel and then one from the Ukraine. Food prepared by members of those communities living here in Paraguay.

Next things took a more Latin turn with offerings from Venezuela and Chile. Tasty and traditional streets foods.

After that was the produce of the local German community followed by offerings from a local organic farm.

Then finally along that side of the hall was in the corner a stall selling Japanese foods. Those manning that stall had gone the extra mile in their display. Not only was the stall decked out in Japanese flags but the staff were dressed Japanese style.

Beyond Japan and along the next side of the hall the international flavours continued.

First French, then Colombian and finally Mexican before one final stall where all the meat was rabbit.

There was so much to choose from that it took a while to decide which cuisine to try.

Eventually I settled on Venezuelan and ended up with something that was somewhat like a taco. Very nice and hot straight off the hotplate.

In addition to all the foods on offer the centre of the hall was filled with stall selling arts and crafts.

There were wood carvings, knives to cut the barbecued meat, cactus and hand crafted sauces and preserves. Plenty of bright and interesting objects to look over.

Furthermore as no Paraguayan festival would be complete without music and dancing. One end of the hall had been filled with a stage and dance floor.

Here visitors could take a seat and enjoy the various bands and displays of traditional Paraguayan music.

That was all very enjoyable, especially the Paraguayan dancing. However it was also the one failing of the festival.

Some of the bands, not helped by the tin roof, had their instruments turned up a little high. That did make it a little difficult to communicate with any of the sellers on the various food stalls.

However on such an overwhelmingly successful day that was just a small issue. One that I would hope will be rectified before the next International food festival.

Then finally outside for all those children who had had quite enough of being dragged around looking at food there were a couple of bouncy castles to play on.

All in all it was a very good afternoon and demonstrated that there is an appetite and audience for such events out in the countryside beyond Asuncion.

I look forward to it’s return and the arrival of other events with anticipation.

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It contains the largest collection of ethnographic and archaeological material relating to the ancient and indigenous peoples of Paraguay. A must for anyone interested in the history of cultures.

The museum was founded by Dr Andres Barbero who had previously studied medicine before beginning this first study of Paraguayan pre-history.

investigations of the pre-history of Paraguay began in the early years of the 20th century. Initially few full scale expeditions were mounted with just two being made into the Chaco in the 1930s.

In his work Dr Barbero was assisted by the work of Dr Max Schmidt from Berlin and Dr Branislava Susnik from Ljubljana.

Together they founded the museum to house their collections, plus other donated items in 1929.

Following Dr Barbero’s death in February 1951 the museum became for a while dormant although the ethnographic studies continued.

In 1956 the museum was however reopened in it’s present location and in the name of it’s founder Dr Andres Berbero

It is now located near the top of Avenida Espana close to the historic centre of Asuncion. The building in which it is housed was previously the head quarters of the Red Cross in Paraguay. Considering the work that Dr Barbero also did for medicine in Paraguay that seems appropriate.

It was not until the 1950s after his death that a full and systematic study of the indigenous cultures of Paraguay could be made. This continued right up until the 1990s capturing cultures shortly before they were engulfed by outside influences.

I took a visit to the museum myself and was very impressed with what I saw. Everything was clearly displayed and labelled and the material on display covered almost every aspect of the pre-historic and indigenous cultures of Paraguay.

As I climbed the stairway to the front door of the museum I could see right away that the collection was indeed hidden away in plain sight.

Rather than being able to walk straight in I found a locked gate and a door bell to press for assistance.

After ringing the door bell a woman soon appeared to check that I did wish to see the collection before going off to find the key to unlock the gate.

Once inside I had to wait while one of her colleagues was found to act as my guide. The first thing he did was explain the rules of the museum, no photographs and don’t touch anything. I suspect he was with me to make sure the rules were being followed as much as to explain things.

However by the time we got to the top of a fine staircase and I had had a chance to look at the first few items he was happy to take a chair outside the entrance to the exhibits and let me explore alone.

He would have acted as my guide around the museum and I did ask him to clarify a few things afterwards but I much prefer to discover things alone and that was respected.

Everything in the museum was laid out in a clear and logical fashion where each display lead on to the next. There were plenty of written signs and descriptions explaining what everything was and where it had come from.

The signs were as would be expected only in Spanish. Therefore some knowledge of the language would be beneficial.

As for the exhibits themselves the display began with a sizeable collection of funeral urns. These were substantial vessels far larger than ones I had seen previously in British museums.

Next came a collection of artefacts relating to stone age cultures. Stone arrowheads and axes as well as related cutting tools.

From there on the material was on the whole items that had been collected from indigenous peoples still living by their traditional ways during the 20th century.

In the form of fabrics there are to be found traditional items of clothing as well as hammocks and belts and bags.

Then on the ceremonial side bright items made from feathers and animal hides. These include things such as head dresses and cloaks. All perfectly preserved and carefully displayed.

For household objects items such as wooden bowls and cups as well as tool for digging the land can be seen.

Living as mostly as hunter gathers the people were skilled in producing the weapons required for the hunting of their pray. There is a large collection of spears which display and interesting mixture of tips.

Additionally to be seen are a number of bows and arrows. The signage explains that bows came in three different sizes depending on their tasks. The largest was two metres in length standing taller than the bowman who carried it.

Next to these weapons is a traditional canoe cut out of a single tree trunk. It is made of one of the lightest and most buoyant of the forest trees.

The collection carries on over two rooms with every display case holding something worthy of inspection, be that children’s toys or an old person’s stick.

It is a museum to be viewed slowly and viewed well.

In some of the later display cases I spotted several items that demonstrated how the cultures were vanishing just as they were being discovered. There were bottle tops being used to make a rattle and hats that would not have looked out of place in any Paraguayan town at the time.

To give the ethnographic and archaeological expeditions some context there were then two further rooms displaying a chronological time line of the expeditions and subsequent publications.

These large panels running along the wall are accompanied by blown up photographs of the people of the communities that were visited. They show the faces of the people who’s culture the museum preserves.

The Museum Dr Andres Barbero is a worthy addition to any visit to Asuncion for those wishing to learn something more of the history of the country.

It is open all week and I strongly recommended taking the time to ring it’s doorbell.

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With the temperature rising above 40 degrees in summer it is no surprise that people should seek somewhere to cool down.

During the summer season anywhere within reach of Asuncion or any of the other cities fills with tourists at the weekend. Many just come for a day in the countryside. However for those wishing to stay a little longer a balneario will always at the very least have somewhere that a tent can be pitched. Many of the more developed ones have huts or cabins that can be rented out.

The water that runs through the park is always the focus. That is by far the best place to find relief from the summer heat.

Most people are content to just sit in the cool waters either with a cold beer or just taking in the view whilst children splash around.

For those wishing to be a little more active a walk down stream seeking rocks, rapids and small waterfalls can be very enjoyable. And for anyone with even more energy nets are strung out across the streams for games of volley ball.

Balnearios come in all shapes and sizes. Something for every budget and every desire.

The largest have all the facilities of a holiday camp and can cater for many coach loads of tourists on a summer weekend with ease. These places are highly developed with bars, restaurants and accommodation. Somewhere for those who enjoy crowds and who like a few comforts to be laid on.

At the other end of the scale are small family run parks. Here a lawn will be manicured and everything focused towards the stream that runs through the property. These simpler places where the owner greets arrivals at the gate are usually much quieter and more peaceful than the larger balnearios.

Between these two extremes a whole multitude of other variations are to be found.

Where I am in Piribebuy being up in the hills and not to far from Asuncion the countryside and all it can offer has for many years drawn tourists.

The hills around the town are full of crystal clear streams and many at some point along their course run through a balneario or two.

To show the great variety of parks that is to be found nearby I will outline the features of a few of them. each filling it’s own niche during the summer holiday season.

PINAMAR

Pinamar is by far the largest and most developed balneario in the Piribebuy area.

It is accessed by a 5 km drive along an eucalyptus filled avenue and from it’s large gate and ticket house it sets out to display it’s stature.

A river takes a wide lazy sweep through the park and has been channelled to provide beaches, waterfalls and deep wide water to swim in. One section of the river has been held behind wall to create a large outdoor swimming pool.

There is plenty to see around the waters as well. Walkways have been laid out and rope bridges cross the river.

On site there is also a bar and a restaurant and number of cabins that can be booked by holiday makers.

The park is well run which is essential in view of the number of visitors it draws. In high summer there may be thousands of people on site. The car park on those days is full of cars and coaches.

During summertime it is not a place for a quiet afternoon out. However out of season the catering may shut down but the park remains open. On a warm autumn day it is quite possible to have the park to yourself.

CHOLOLO

Another well developed park this has taken it’s business and focus in a different direction.

At Chololo instead of the party goers you are more likely to find nature lovers.

The park itself sits only a little way back from the paved road. Once inside however that could be a thousand miles away.

Chololo like Pinamar is long established and has many on site facilities. It to has a restaurant and for accommodation there is a hotel. No need to rough it here anymore than one wishes to.

As with all balnearios it’s reason far being is a stream. Here rather than being managed it is in many ways left so that it can be enjoyed in it’s natural state.

There are places to bathe but the main features are a number of small waterfalls and the wooded groves that surround them.

These are all very picturesque and are contained within the boundaries of the park. Accordingly access is easy and they are well maintained.

It is very much a place suitable for families to come and enjoy the countryside together.

In common with all balnearios in the off season Chololo is largely dormant. However the restaurant does remain open all year round.

SALTO AMAMBAY

Here despite the site being quite large developments are low key.

The park for a long time was quite hidden away and unknown. It is a little distance from the bulk of the other balnearios. It has in many ways only recently been discovered.

Once again water is the focus. With Salto being Spanish for Falls is it obvious from the name alone what form they take in the park.

The river falls over a wide arc of rock creating a long curtain of water a couple of metres in height.

All around there is green open countryside and falls are a fine sight. Well worth the trip just to see them.

Facilities in the park are basic and it is best to bring all you need with you.

On a sunny day walking around the park and admiring the waterfalls and their surroundings is a very pleasant way to pass some time.

As there are no stores or bars to open and shut with the seasons the park remains open all year round. With however reduced opening hours out of season.

EL BOSQUE

This balneario is a little different to the others.

Water and bathing are still very important but the park does not have access to it’s own stretch of river. A stream runs alongside it but is not accessible from the park.

However long ago the owner decided that the lack of a river need not be a problem and so bought his own water.

So instead of natural water the park has a large covered swimming pool. The roof over the pool both shades the bathers and ensures the party can go on even if it starts to rain.

For this has developed into very much a party place. There is a large covered dance floor and a disco that plays well into the night.

All summer long coaches are parked on the roadside in front of it while the tourists they bring enjoy themselves inside.

With a swimming pool and a disco the target market here is youngsters looking for some lively entertainment.

Open only during the summer months the doors close as summer ends and for the rest of the year it is silent apart from the sound of renovations being made to prepare the place for next year’s party goers.

SALTO CRISTAL

To demonstrate a small family run balneario I could have selected any one of a dozen or so parks. I have chosen this one as being just a few minutes from my house it is the one In know best.

All the other family run balnearios follow a similar formula.

Here a family has been fortunate enough to have a stream running through their land and to bring in a little income opened their garden up to visitors.

The facilities are simple. A small shop selling drinks and places for guests to cook their barbecues.

The lawn is kept well trimmed and slopes gently down to the water. The water here is fine for splashing about in but not really deep enough for swimming.

It falls over a couple of rock platforms giving children places to investigate and explore. Families visit this and similar parks as somewhere for the adults to unwind and for the children to play safely.

There are no cabins for hire but ample space to pitch a tent and sleep under the stars.

These smaller parks are other than on a couple of high season weekends fairly quiet. Ideal places for an uncomplicated country break.

No staff need ever be employed in these parks. The owner will greet arrivals at the gate and all other duties are carried out by family members.

These are just a few examples of the balnearios that can be found all across Paraguay. Catering to many different markets there is always something there for everyone.

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Terere is an infusion of crushed yerba mate with ice cold water. Only in Paraguay is yerba mate drunk with iced water. Elsewhere in places such as Argentina and Uruguay it is taken with hot water. In that from it is known as mate.

Yerba mate is sometimes also drunk in that from in Paraguay. However only first thing in the morning or on a cold evening.

At all other times Paraguayans drink terere. It is to be seen in houses, in offices and out in the streets. Often the second thing to be offered on arrival at a Paraguayan house, after a chair, is some terere.

A taste for terere is one that must be acquired. Soon though the realisation arrives as to how refreshing it is on a hot day.

It is not something that is simply mixed in a cup like coffee. Instead there is a whole ritual behind the preparing of terere, as there is with drinking it.

The first things that are needed are the correct pieces of equipment. Yerba mate is an infusion and not something that dissolves in water. To prepare and drink terere you will need the right vessels.

The first of these is the guampa. That is the beaker like pot that will hold the yerba mate. Traditionally a guampa is made of wood or horn.

It is a round flat bottomed cup that stands a little taller than a coffee cup. There is no handle as the guampa is always slim enough to be held comfortably in one hand.

The exterior is brightly decorated. Most commonly the decoration takes the form of Paraguayan scenes. On occasions rather than that there will be an advert displaying clearly where it has come from. That may take the form of the name of a shop or an advertising promotion for just about anything.

Once you have your guampa the next thing you are going to need is a bombilla.

A bombilla is the perforated straw though which the infused terere is drunk.

The best are made of silver and engraved but on the whole a bombilla will simply be made of metal, with possibly a bit of decoration.

It is a specialised straw which flares out in the shape of a spoon. This is the bottom of the bombilla and is placed inside the guampa. The spoon shaped base of the bombilla is enclosed and perforated with small holes which allow only the infused water and not the yerba mate to pass though.

And that brings us on to the yerba mate.

Yerba mate is a native plant of the region . It’s scientific name is Ilex paraguariensis. It was used to make an infused beverage by the people of the region long before the arrival of the Spanish.

Leaves from the yerba mate bush are cut, dried and ground. Then packaged for sale in every corner of Paraguay.

These days a small number of firms grow and process vast quantities for the mass market. In recent time they have been joined by an ever growing number of businesses offering a more boutique product.

In every supermarket in Paraguay various yerba mates will fill at least one aisle.

To differentiate the many similar products available additives are often added to the yerba mate, either for flavour or for medicinal reasons. Two of the most common additives are mint and lemon, but there are many more.

By now you will have the guampa and bombilla required for drinking terere and the yerba mate from which it is created.

Now you can put everything together.

Take first the guampa and fill it about half full with yerba mate. Some people do fill the guampa higher, but I like to leave plenty of room for the water.

Next give the guampa a little shake to loosen up any clumps of yerba mate and insert the bombilla. When you are doing that it is best to trip guampa a little to the side so that when water is added it can more easily get to the very bottom. Otherwise the water may have trouble filtering down through the yerba mate.

This can be put to the side now for a moment whilst the water is prepared.

Water is usually held in a plastic thermos flask. A large glass jug could be used. That looks better than a flask, but can be a little impractical if no tables are to hand.

It is best to fill the flask with ice first and then pour the water over the top. On a hot day there really cannot be too much ice.

Something else that can be added to the flask is herbs. On the whole these herbs added are medicinal.

These are known in Paraguay as yuyo. A name that covers all the many native herbs and plants that can be picked and added to terere.

It is not unusual to see people on the roadside searching through the grass and hedgerows for yuyo. These are then sold, either on the small market stalls that can be found in every Paraguayan town or by itinerant sellers walking the streets with their baskets of freshly picked herbs.

Another option would be to slice up a lemon or two and add that to the flask.

With ice and possibly yuyo inside the flask can be topped up with water and the terere is ready to be drunk.

To do that pour some of the iced water into the guampa on top of the yerba mate and let it soak in. Just enough to cover completely the yerba mate.

Now suck the infusion up the bombilla and repeat.

The first two or three fillings are always a little bitter. After that the yerba mate soon releases it’s flavour and the taste becomes much smoother.

With everything prepared and in order you can now enjoy your terere under the shade of a tree or wherever else you happen to be.

Just though one final word. In Paraguay terere is a communal drink, something that is shared.

One person will be delegated server and will be responsible for refilling the water in the guampa and for passing it to the next person in the group.

There will be only be one guampa so if you were to partake in terere with a group you will be using the same straw as everyone else.

And that then is how to prepare terere.

To make your own you will of course need yerba mate, but after that any cup and perforated straw will make temporary guampas and bombillas. And just something to hold the iced water.

Oh, and of course, someone to share it with.

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It’s origins go back to long before the arrival of the Spanish in the region.

The original chipa was the bread that was made by the Guarani who lived in the forests of the land that is now known as Paraguay.

The chipas of the Guarani were made of ground cassava flour and fat. This was baked to produce their bread, which they called chipa.

The arrival of the Spanish did not erase the cultures and traditions of the Guarani as along with them came Jesuits seeking souls to convert to Christianity.

The Jesuits brought the Guarani out of the forests into planned settlements. This was in part to assist with the conversions and in part to protect them from bands of slave traders operating out the the Portuguese lands to the east.

In these settlements known as Missions the Jesuits set about converting the Guarani whilst at the same time recording and adapting local traditions and customs.

Skills such as carpentry and music were taught and the peoples legends were recorded in written form for the first time.

They also brought new foods which had never before been seen in the region. Amongst these were cheese and chicken eggs.

The cheese and eggs were added to the chipa recipe and it took on the form which has been maintained until today.

That is the baked cheese filled rolls that are seem everywhere in Paraguay. Most commonly a sausage shaped portion is rolled out and then wrapped round like a bagel for baking.

A freshly baked chipa has a crunchy exterior and a soft chewy interior filled with sort Paraguayan cheese.

One noticeable change that has occurred since the chipa took on it’s modern form is that these days corn flour is as likely to be used as cassava flour.

Another is that over time a number of variations have been created. Amongst these are Chipa So’o, with a meat filling, Chipa 4 cheeses, with other cheeses in addition to the traditional Paraguayan cheese and the bite size Chipitas which fill the same niche as crisps and peanuts.

An example of a recipe would be mix 500 grams of cassava flour, 500 grams of corn flour and a teaspoon of salt in a large bowl. Then mix in 125 grams of butter. Once that is done then whisk in 4 eggs and half a cup of milk. After that cheese is added. Either 250 grams of Paraguayan cheese or another soft cheese.

The dough will now be ready to roll out into sausages about 20 cm long which on a baking tray. These can be wrapped round into the shape of bagels. Leave everything to rest for half an hour before placing in a hot oven.

In about 15 minutes the chipas should be baked. They will be hard on the outside and soft and chewy within. Fresh from the oven whilst they are still warm is then the best way to eat them.

Once the chipas have been prepared they must be baked. This can be done in an oven, but the proper method is in a wood burning oven built outdoors for just that purpose.

This oven is dome shaped, made of clay and lined with bricks. It is called a tatakua and almost every house has one in their garden. A hot fire is burnt within it and the embers are swept out and trays of chipa placed inside with the entrance sealed behind them. The heat inside the tatakua will be enough to bake several trays.

Incidentally the tatakua has exactly the same dome shaped form as nests of the hornero who often likes to build his nest nearby.

Chipa has become one of the classic street and snack foods of Paraguay.

The many snack food stalls in every town all sell chipas in one form or another. Additionally street sellers with large flat wicker baskets on their heads full of chipa are a common sight. Sometimes these have been made by a larger business but most often they are fresh home made produce.

A chipa out of a wicker basket is a safe to eat as anything found in a restaurant and as more often than not they have been made by the person who is selling them come with a personal, home made touch.

Bakeries specialising in chipa are also to be found all along the major roads that cross Paraguay. There cars can stop and buy some snacks to eat as they travel onwards.

Additionally each of these bakeries has its neatly dressed staff in uniforms showing which bakery they work for.

These women, and they are always women, travel backwards and forwards on the buses selling chipas to the passengers. Their sense of balance is quite something to be seen as even on the most crowded buses they are able to work their way through the bodies with their basket held up above all the heads with one hand and never drop anything.

Being older than the country itself and being available on almost every street corner it should come as no surprise to learn that the chipa and it’s baking has blended with many parts of Paraguayan culture.

For example on religious holidays such as Good Friday and San Blas when it is traditional not to cook meals chipa is baked instead.

Houses will spend many hours preparing and then baking a large number of chipas. Enough for the family and take as gifts to friends and neighbours.

Furthermore one of the dances done by girls at every school event involves chipas. Here the girls in full national dress perform holding wicker baskets representing baskets of chipas on their heads. This dance is almost always done by the youngest girls so I suspect is also probably one of the simplest to learn. Additionally as they are all trying to hold onto their baskets keeping everyone in line is probably a little easier.

There is even a National Day of the Chipa. That is August 9th.

And just one final thing. If you do ever get the chance to try chipa eat it there and then. A warm fresh chipa is delicious but if left to the next day it will be tough and solid.

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Having emerged from below ground and carried out one last moult these large insects make their presence known to all. Their distinctive sound whistles and buzzes far louder than any of the other sounds of nature. So loud it carries several hundred metres with ease.

On a summer evening one of the great pleasures of the Paraguayan countryside is sitting listening to the cicadas in the dark. Some are distant buzzes then suddenly one will unleash a blast of sound from no more than a couple of feet away.

The native peoples of Paraguay, the Guarani, however know through their legends that it has not always been so. There was a time when the nights were silent and the cicadas did not sing.

This was a time long ago when people in the land were few and far between. It was a time before there were any towns or villages. The Guaranis lived then in small tribes scattered across the dense forests.

All had to struggle to get by with only that that the forests and the rivers than ran though them could provide. As life could be at times hard many sought ways to make their lives easier and more rewarding.

For one tribe though life held no difficulties. Game to be hunted and fished was abundant and almost eager to be caught and everyone lived contented lives.

It had always been a good and peaceful tribe but the reason it was now also the most content was a young girl. A daughter of one of the members of the tribe.

The girl had been blessed with the most beautiful singing voice. All day long, where ever she went she would sing, lighting up the forest and everything around her with joy and happiness.

The people understood that it was her beautiful voice that bought happiness and an ease and tranquillity to their lives.

As time passed by tales of this contented tribe living in harmony with it’s surroundings spread through the forest. Along with it went the news that this peaceful life was achieved through the beautiful singing of a young girl.

People though being people were not all willing accept their neighbours good fortune. Some thought it unfair that others should seem to be living better lives than them and were jealous.

The most jealous was a tribe a bad people who believed it was their right to have the best of everything.

This tribe moved through the forests closer to where the singing girl and the happy tribe were living.

Along the way they made plans as to what they would do. At first they thought to kill the girl so as to deprive the world of her gifts. Then after much discussion another plan was agreed. They would steal the singing girl away from her tribe.

That way they thought they could make her sing for them. Then they could have all they ever wanted and with ease they would achieve anything they wished for.

To steal the singing girl away would not though be simple. In addition to being bad people they were weak and cowardly. Attacking the singing girl’s tribe they could not do. Not one of them was brave enough to face another man in combat.

They did though have one weapon with which to steal away the singing girl without having to fight anybody. In the tribe there was a magician. His magic was of the most evil kind. He would use it to trap the singing girl in order that she may be used to benefit his tribe.

From a thicket of trees near the singing girls camp he began to cast his spell.

Soon the effects began to show on the young girl. She started to feel strange and where as before she was always skipping about singing now she took to sitting silently and alone.

At first her family thought that she was ill. All the remedies the forest could offer were tried, but none would improve her condition.

Then one day they discovered that she was nowhere to be seen around the camp and must have wandered off into the forest alone. At once a search party was sent out to find as she was far too young to be safe alone in the forest and everyone knew she was unwell.

It was not long before the search party found her, sitting on a rock at the edge of a forest clearing. But as they approached she jumped up and ran to another rock in the centre of the clearing.

They knew that it was not a natural illness that had stricken her down when out of nowhere a wind rose howling round and round the clearing. Leaves and branches were torn off trees as the wind rushed round stopping anyone from approaching the singing girl.

The people in the search party knew about magic and knew that some evil magic had been cast upon the girl and rushed back to their camp to seek their magician.

He heard their rapidly spoken tale and agreed that it did seem that she was under some evil spell. Along with them he hurried back to the clearing where the girl was being help by the wind.

The magician tried some of his most powerful spells but could not stop the wind. His magic was good magic to be used for healing and the like, not for combat.

Whilst the magician tried one thing after another all eyes were fixed on the girl. The wind was now pressing in tighter and tighter around her, squeezing her in upon herself.

As it did she began to shrink. Smaller and smaller she shrank before their eyes.

By now the magician had realised there was nothing he could do to undo or reverse the evil magic, but that he could stop it.

As he cast his spells the wind did die down and eventually stop all together. But when the air cleared there was no sign of the girl.

They approached the caution unsure if the evil magic had truly been stopped and when they reached the spot where she had been standing they found just a small insect.

One of the men picked up this insect and it began to sing. Then they understood what had happened. The evil magician had turned the singing girl into an insect that he intended to imprison in a cage and make sing for his tribe.

Upon returning to the camp there was much sadness at the loss of the singing girl. When though the insect began to sing their spirits rose and they realised that although the singing girl was lost her voice had been saved.

Through that voice she would become immortal singing throughout the forest forever more.

So came into being the first cicada and forever the people would remember the girl who sang.

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However with Paraguay being off the tourist trail it is also off the route taken by most touring artists when they visit South America.

With a more established infrastructure and a larger potential audience countries such as Argentina and Brazil have a far greater pull on a bands time and resources.

Some bands though do venture here and are almost universally pleased with the experience. The rarity of events guarantees large crowds and an enthusiastic welcome. Any visiting band is also liable to find themselves to be front page news with the local press eager to be seen promoting their visit in a positive light.

These large shows that sometimes occur no more than two or three times a year are also important to local Paraguayan musicians. Without them, no matter how good a band may be, they are restricted to playing small shows to loyal audiences.

These large shows headlined by international acts breathe life into the local music scene. Being few and far between every one is much anticipated and long remembered.

With Asuncion being by far the largest city in the country it is the obvious location for musical events. With just a few exceptions, if you want to listen to live music Asuncion is where you must head.

One of those exceptions is traditional Paraguayan music which being part of the culture of Paraguay can be heard regularly in every town and village across the land.

I though am thinking modern rock and pop music which although hugely popular world wide has little to do with the traditional cultures of any lands.

So it is to Asuncion that one almost always must travel to enjoy a live music event.

There are around the city a number of bars and clubs that put on bands. These are generally where local bands can play. Places that are not to expensive to book for the night and that are of the right size to accommodate their audience.

Occasionally an overseas band may play one of these smaller venues. A band that is visiting Paraguay and wants something more intimate than a stadium to play in.

I have been to a few shows in clubs and bars. Always friendly places. Often their is a party atmosphere about the place with most of the audience knowing each other. The circle of dedicated music lovers in Asuncion is quite small and you tend to meet the same people again and again.

As such whenever I go to see a band in an Asuncion club I can be sure of meeting people I know.

With the more relaxed air almost like a party it is not uncommon for the music not to start until well after midnight.

At the other end of the scale are the stadium events that occur just a few times every year.

These on the whole are outdoor events. The evenings in Paraguay are generally well suited to bring outside. For most of the year warm evenings are assured. Furthermore there little in the way of large indoor venues available as alternatives.

The locations best suited to holding large events are the old Jockey club and a couple of the modern football stadiums.

Of these the best suited is the Jockey club. It ceased to be used as a race track many years ago and so is well used to holding all manner of large events. It is a large open and flat area of grass ideally suited for the setting up of stages and all the other paraphernalia of a music event.

The site is secure being surrounded by a permanent fence and has a smooth clear system for entry and exit that has been refined over the years. Furthermore being on a main road on the edge of Asuncion access is not a problem.

I have been to a number of events there over the years and have only ever had a good experience.

The couple of football stadiums in Asuncion that also hold events are more modern with better facilities, but on the whole festival goers are happy to stand in a field.

With Covid shutting much of the world down for a couple of years all such activities came to a halt. So as the restrictions came to an end people looked forward to the return of touring bands and the chance to enjoy live music once more.

I have recently been to one of the first shows after the pandemic. As I knew there would be there was a large enthusiastic crowd there looking forward to listening once more to overseas bands.

That particular event was called Kilkfest and took the form of a two night festival spread over three days.

Due to the format and the weather I just attended the first night. As it happened all but one of the bands I wanted to see were playing on the first night, so that worked out fine.

I would have also needed to stay in a hotel for three days for two nights out. That only the most expensive hotels had rooms available for all three nights persuaded me that staying for just the one night would be best. Furthermore the heavy rain forecast for the final night was not at all appealing.

So in the end I headed into Asuncion for just one night. Not having to pay for those extra nights I found a comfortable mid range one rather than somewhere cheap and basic.

Whilst the selection of hotels worked out just fine I was not so lucky with the weather. It started to rain soon after I arrived in Asuncion and did not stop until early evening.

I was able to head out in the dry but before I arrived it returned and I was soon soaked. It would be another hour or two before the rain finally stopped and by then it would have been difficult to be much wetter, also through the passage of thousands of festival goers much of the grass had turned to soft mud.

I was not though going to let a little bit of mud and water spoil my night out.

There were two stages set up in the Jockey Club to allow music to be played continually. One stage would be reset whilst a band play on the other.

Between the two stages I listened to several band but it was the two headlining acts who were both playing on the larger of the two stages that I had come to see. Thankfully by the time the first of them began their set the rain had finally stopped.

Those were both international bands taking their festival tour around South America and making a stop off in Paraguay along the way.

The first of them was Interpol and the other The Arctic Monkeys. Both played good sets in front of an enthusiastic audience. I may not have been right at the front but I was certainly far nearer the stage than I would have been able to be at a European festival.

It was getting towards 1am when The Arctic Monkeys set drew to a close and I headed back to my hotel having had a fine night out looking forward to my next opportunity to listen to some live music.

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