The ruins of the Jesuit settlements of Trinidad and Jesus are Paraguays World Heritage Site. Deservedly so and belong very high on every tourists agenda.
There were eight Jesuits settlements in Paraguay. Of these the best preserved and easiest reached are the Missions of Trinidad and Jesus. They both lie within easy reach of the southern city of Encarnacion. Being World Heritage Sites both are well maintained with clear signage and museums.
The Catholic Jesuits arrived in Southern South America in the late 16th century. Their mission was to both convert the native peoples to Christianity and to protect them from both the encroachments of the Spanish and the activities of Brazilian slavers.
A number of missions were set up across what was to become Paraguay, Brazil, Argentina and Uruguay. During their early years these settlements often had to be relocated following raids by Brazilian slavers. Old settlements were burnt down and new ones erected further from their reach.
These pressures eventually drove all the Jesuit missions from Brazil and down the Rio Parana and into the border lands of Paraguay and Argentina along its banks. To this day both Paraguay and Argentina have provinces named Misiones.
Here in the late 17th century the last of the Jesuit Missions were founded. They were named reducciones or settlements and into them the Jesuits sought to bring the nomadic natives who were still living as hunter gathers in the forests so as to protect and educate them.
Work on the reduccion of Jesus de Tavarangue began in 1685. However as its site was moved a couple of times the buildings were not finally completed until 1767.
The mission of Santisima Trinidad del Parana was the last to founded. Work there began in 1706. As the last settlement it was also the grandest and of the highest architectural quality. Here are also to be found the most extensive remains.
The missions are architectural wonders. Stunning examples of European Ecclesiastical architecture surrounded by South American jungle. They were hand built out of local stone by the native Guaranis under Jesuit supervision.
Although they had only previously lived in temporary encampments the Jesuits soon found that the Guarani were naturally skillful and quick learners. They soon developed into fine stonemasons and woodcarvers.
Once completed the mission contained habitations for 2-3000 natives. There were also orchards, store houses, bell towers and a large and impressive central church. All this would be run by just two or three European Jesuits.
In bringing the natives into their settlements the Jesuits may have destroyed their lifestyle but they saved and preserved their language and culture. It was the Jesuits who after learning the Guarani language gave it an alphabet and a written form. Without them it is unlikely Guarani would have become the national language it is today. In addition by keeping apart from the Spanish colonizers they were able to maintain the myths, legends and cultures of the native peoples of Paraguay.
As well as recording and protecting the Jesuits also gave to the natives. They found that the Guarani were naturally musical. Their talents extended not only to the playing but also to the making of musical instruments. It is no accident that the instruments of choice for Paraguayan musicians these days are not traditional South American types but are instead those of European origin such as the harp and the guitar.
All this though was not to last. In 1768 feeling that the Jesuits had become too powerful running their states within states they were ordered out of Spains South American provinces. Once that was done the missions soon began to fall into disrepair as the abandoned natives either returned to the jungles or drifted into the Spanish towns.
An air of benevolent dereliction fell across the missions as apart from some stone taken away for use elsewhere they were allowed to be reclaimed by the jungle. The sites were left untouched without new settlements being built on top of the old. There they stayed until the 20th century when the first attempts were made to reclaim them from nature.
Now both Trinidad and Jesus are fully accessible to tourists. Unlike other archaeological sites there are though no signs saying where you can and can not walk and what you can and can not touch. All is clearly sign posted and awaiting self exploration.
Additionally despite their fine state of preservation and international importance there are no hoards of visitors arriving by the coach load. Instead their absence gives them a sense of calmness and tranquility as you explore the ruins alone. With no need to avoid the next tour party you can take as long as you like to slowly soak up their atmosphere.
Great post Simon.
The Jesuit ruins are the only major tourist attraction in the world that I have visited where you can be completely alone. Quite amazing. Living nearby, I go to one of them every now and then to relax and read. The ancient other-world feeling is striking.
I’d also recommend the ruins at San Damien y Cosme. There was a Jesuit back in the 1700s who was the number one authority in the world on astronomy of the entire Southern Hemisphere. You can see his writings. Unfortunately, they were out of copies of his book when I visited! Also nearby, is the huge hydroelectric day Yacyreta which you can visit, a nice little museum with flora and fauna of the region, and a zoo nearby.
I’ve been there two or three times and also always found them to be very relaxing places. And the lack of visitors makes taking good photos easy. Missed visiting the other site only because it looked a little more tricky to get to.
The dam is on the list of places to visit next time I’m down in that part of the country. I was in EncarnaciĆ³n years ago before the dam was finished. The lower town was half derelict, it’s a bit different now.
A couple other things to do in the area – in the nearby town of Ayolas you can rent a little boat and take it out fishing on the Parana river.
At San Cosme they have a small observatory set up in honor of the famous astronomer. You can learn about the Paraguayan night sky.
Let me know if you’re in the region!
Thanks for the suggestions. Once the world returns to some sort of normality and I dare travel a bit further I’ll let know when I’m down that end of the country.