In Caacupe, approximately 60km from Asuncion resides The Virgin of Caacupe. She is placed behind the high altar of the Cathedral Basilica of Our Lady of the Miracles in Caacupe and is the most venerated religious symbol in Paraguay.
Caacupe is the spiritual capital of Paraguay and the statue of the Virgin has been visited by the devoted since it’s dedication on 8th December 1765. The 8th December is the Feast of the Immaculate Conception and therefore a date of great importance in many Catholic countries.
The statue made of wood and was carved and painted long before it came to rest in its current home. In addition the Virgin also wears a finely embroidered cloak. This image is one of the best know throughout Paraguay and few homes would be complete without an image or small statue of the Virgin of Caacupe.
The cathedral which now holds the Virgin is relatively modern, a large bright airy building mainly painted in white and which focuses the eyes of anyone entering towards the Virgin. The cathedral itself was dedicated in May 1988 by Pope John Paul II and then also visited by Pope Francis in July 2015. It was built to replace an older cathedral which had fallen into disrepair
With the Virgin of Caacupe, also know as Our Lady of the Miracles, being dedicated to the Feast of the Immaculate Conception this is also the main religious festival in Paraguay. Everyone who is able heads to Caacupe on or around 8th December to pray to the Virgin in the cathedral. With the journey being a pilgrimage it is traditional to walk at least part of the way, with some of the devoted walking all the way from Asuncion.
For a couple of weeks the quiet town is buzzing with activity. Crowds fill the streets and vendors set up stalls to attend to their needs. On the 8th December itself the crowds are so great that the roads into town need to be closed to traffic and the only way to walk is the direction the others are moving. With there being far too many people to safely enter the cathedral for mass on that and the days around the 8th an open air mass is held in front of cathedral so that all who wish to can participate. These masses are also broadcast live on national television.
Inside the cathedral there is a spiral staircase leading up to the roof for a fine view over Caacupe and the surrounding countryside. Winding up the walls is mural telling of how the Virgin came to be and how it arrived in Caacupe. Each flight of stairs telling the next chapter of the tale.
The story begins not in Caacupe but nearby in an area that was to become the town of Tobati. There a young indian named Jose was trying to escape from his enemies. He tried to hide in the woods but was sure he would be caught and killed. Eventually he was cornered beneath a tree and expecting to be captured he prayed for assistance. On doing this the Virgin Mary appeared in the sky to him and his foes passed by not seeing him even when he was right in front of them.
News of the escape and the vision reached nearby missionaries and Jose after converting to Christianity carved and painted the statue in thanks to the Virgin Mary for saving his life.
The Virgin remained in the missionary church in Tobati until one night there was a great storm and the settlement was washed away.
The loss of the statue of the Virgin was a matter of great concern and no trace could be found of it. Later however downstream where Caacupe now stands a priest spotted a leather satchel in the river and retrieving it from the water discovered that inside was the undamaged statue.
From that day on having being delivered to Caacupe the Virgin of Caacupe has remained there in her church.
Fascinating Simon. Thanks for writing about it. I should imagine the atmosphere would be electric with so many people gathering together.
Yes it is. I’ve only been there once on 8th, but it was quite something