As a place to live I would rate the countryside above the city. All the space, greenery and fresh air. However I have not forgotten city life and all that it can offer. To enjoy this I take a couple of trips to Asuncion every year.
Sometimes I travel there because there is something to do that can only be done in the city. More often though it is simply a holiday. A change of scenery and the joy of having somewhere different to explore for a couple of days.
When taking a trip to Asuncion is the only time I need set an alarm clock. The only buses that travel from my house to local towns pass at 7 in the morning. An early start to a long day.
Once I have arrived in one of the local towns, either Piribebuy or Paraguari, I catch a long distance bus into Asuncion. This travels to the main bus terminal and from there one final bus is required for me to reach the city center.
Asuncion is not far to travel. Not much more than 60 miles. However as traffic often moves slowly and because a bus will stop wherever there are passengers it takes most of the morning. I will not be in the city center much before 11 o’clock.
Once there first task is to find a hotel which will serve as my base for a couple of days. I always head first to the Hotel Chaco. Well located in the very center of downtown Asuncion. It is moderately priced and very welcoming. Months may pass between my visits but I am still always treated as an old friend.
As well as the comfortable rooms there is a rooftop pool. An ideal place from which to look out across downtown Asuncion and onto the River Paraguay.
I find that two nights is generally long enough to spend in the city. Enough time to do all that must be done.
My first day in the city is really just a long afternoon. After a morning on buses I try and spend it walking and away from further bus trips.
Accordingly once I have caught my breath I will head out sightseeing around central Asuncion. First though lunch is called for. There are a number bars and restaurants to choose from. I know a nice and inexpensive Korean one and generally head there.
Once fed it is time to spend a relaxing afternoon exploring the sights of Asuncion. The center is quite compact so seeing all there is to see in an afternoon presents no difficulties. The historic and culturally important buildings of Asuncion are a joy to explore.
In addition to these the citys’ main shopping street Calle Palma runs in front of the Hotel Chaco containing many stores well worth an air conditioned stroll.
Then behind the streets and buildings is the waters of the Bay of Asuncion and then further off the River Paraguay itself. Along the length of the bay runs a smart boulevard, an ideal place for a promenade.
Later I will head back to the hotel and if the weather is agreeable a dip in the pool. What follows in the evening may just be sitting in the hotels pavement bar watching the world go by or it could be a long and energetic night out in one of the many bars to be found in central Asuncion.
Either way the next morning after making full use of the hotel breakfast I will be ready for a full day out.
Rather than repeat the footsteps I had taken the day before I will head to another part of town.
Mid morning I will catch a local bus from the city center out to the shopping centers. This takes about half an hour and is a cheap and efficient way to get across the city.
Three of the largest shopping centers are like the historic buildings in the center located conveniently close together. Just a few minutes walk apart from each other.
Generally I will start the day in Shopping Mariscal, which has the largest range of moderately priced outlets. Then from there head to the more upmarket Shopping Del Sol before finishing the day in the newest and most exclusive of the three, Paseo la Galeria.
One thing all the shopping centers all have in common is large food halls. A wide range of cuisines is available at all three. A good meal is easy to find.
In fact for much of the day the food halls are the busiest part of the shopping centers. A popular place for people to visit for a meal. There is food to suit all tastes and budgets so those people may be families, office workers or school children.
Surprisingly considering how busy the food halls are the rest of the centers a quiet for most of the day. Rarely a crowd in a shop or a queue at a till. Most of the shoppers seem to be either window shopping or just enjoying an air conditioned stroll.
Without crowds to push through and with the centers all being small by international standards there is no difficulty in seeing all they have to offer by mid afternoon.
Then after a cold drink and an examination of whatever I have bought I will head back to the hotel. Another bus to within a few yards of its front door.
Then maybe one final swim in the pool before seeing what is lined up for my final night in the big city.
Next morning then a hearty breakfast before checking out and heading home.
A few more hours on buses. One to the bus terminal and then a second on to Piribebuy. I head home via Piribebuy as from there it is far easier to catch the taxi I will need to reach my house.
As always the journey takes a while. By mid afternoon though I am back home. Refreshed from my holiday and ready to appreciate all over again how wonderful country living is.
We remember that hotel Chaco and the rooftop pool also the food halls in the shopping centres
All is still there and hope sometime soon to go and visit again