In Asuncion just along from the Port of Asuncion is a small pier. From there small boats ferry passengers out of Asuncion Bay, across the Rio Paraguay and to the small ferry landing at Chaco’i.
These boats being public transport rather than tourist attractions are regular and inexpensive. As with most transport in Paraguay there is no timetable as such, rather each boat waits until it has collected its load of a dozen or so passengers before heading out across the bay.
I once caught one of these boats. Partly to see where they went, but mainly for the novelty of river travel. Once I had climbed down the stairs to the pier I paid the captain the small fee, for return passage I believe. Having paid my fair I found my way into the boats small cabin and took a seat on the wooden benches amongst the other passengers. Life jackets were handed out to all.
The boats are all small and wooden. Cramped inside with the captain sitting on the front bench at the wheel. The diesel engine fired up and with far more sound than action we slowly chugged our way out into the bay.
The first thing we passed was the Port of Asuncion. Although a thousand miles from the sea this is still classed as a deep water harbour. The Rio Paraguay and the bay are deep and wide enough to accommodate the large cargo ships which tie up at the port to unload their produce. The port itself is not large and far from modern but perfectly adequate to preform its duties.
Once clear of the port our boat was able to move out into the bay. From here was an ideal vantage point to look back and see the buildings of Asuncion from the water as any mariner approaching Asuncion would see them. It was the first time I had been able to see the city from such an angle.
There was plenty of time to observe and study everything as although the mouth of the bay did not appear distant there was no sense of urgency about the pace of the ferry. Around us on the bay were numerous other small craft. A ferry making the return trip, small fishing boats, small sail boats and private yachts moored up until their owner would next require them.
Directly ahead stood the heavily wooded northern arm of the bay. Cloaked with greenery almost down to the waters edge. Then a little south of the the entrance to the bay itself with the Rio Paraguay flowing past beyond. It was to this entrance the captain now aimed his boat.
After a good while cross the bay we finally left it and entered to waters of the Rio Paraguay itself. The river is wide and fast flowing brown with the heavy load of sediment it carries. Out here the boats were replaced by ships. Large cargo vessels that ply their trade up and down the river.
Once on the river the captain turned his boat to the north heading upstream against the current and slowly made his way across the depths of the river and towards the far bank. Lying abandoned I spotted the rotting hulks of a number of old ships that had long since sailed their last.
As we made our way across the river the view of Asuncion was soon hidden behind the northern arm arm the bay and the bank of the Rio Paraguay. The river was deceptively wide and as with the bay took a long time to cross in our little boat. No doubt to it was also travelling with more caution once out here on the open river.
After a while a row of beached vessels just like ours came into view. This was the ferry landing at Chaco’i. The boat passed several brightly painted boats before pulling up at a small wooden pier resting on the mud of the river back. We had arrived without undue incident.
Chaco’i itself is nothing more than a few shacks and cafes clustered by the waterside and along the road leading inland and onto the Chaco and Northern Paraguay. It has no need to be anything more for as far as I could see it existed solely as a transit point linking river and road transport together.
My reason for going there was purely for the journey across the river, which had been a very enjoyable experience. So after a quick look around to see if any unusual flora or fauna was to be seen it was a cold drink taking in the view and the another ferry this time back to Asuncion and where I had began.
That boat again waited until all the seats were full and then headed out across the Rio Paraguay and back to the Bay of Asuncion. Having seen all there was to see on the way out I was able to just sit back, relax and enjoy the return journey.
Soon enough we were chugging our way towards the little concrete pier that marked the end of the trip and I was once again back on dry land just minutes from the bustle if the city center.
The trip took almost the whole of an afternoon and under a warm sun was a very pleasant way to spend one.
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