The traditional dance and music of Paraguay is not just a history. It is very much part of the modern day culture of the land. There is no one who has not learnt and participated in it as a child.
Being part of the culture of Paraguay there are some groups who are quite professional. Every town has its dance school and a troupe of dancers to appear at every major festival. Additionally there are a small number of dance troupes who tour the country and perform for tourists.
These have all spent many months if not years perfecting their skills. Often there will be a band of musicians to accompany the dancers. Their shows are faultless.
However this is not the best way to see the dances performed. And certainly not the best way to see how much they mean to those taking part as well as their audience.
For me the ideal way to see Paraguayan dance is in the countryside where the dancers are the local school children and the audience are their friends and family.
The steps may be a little misplaced and the technique at times a little lacking. However this is more than made up for by the enthusiasm of the children and the genuineness of the setting. They are not dancing for tourists, even local ones. Instead they dance to be at one with their classmates and to make their mothers feel proud.
The music is all prerecorded at times the wrong tune or even no tune at all may play. That though only adds to the relaxed naturalness of the event.
Children learn the dances as soon as they begin school. Even the pre school children will have a dance to preform in a school festival. The smallest obviously are taught the simplest dances, with just a few steps to remember. Then as they get older more intricate dances are learnt.
By the time they are collage students each child would have been taught the full spectrum of Paraguayan dances.
For the boys dancing is very much reserved for the festivals. It is not something they are expected to practice for their own pleasure every day at home. As such their dress is quite simple. Light trousers, as shirt of traditional Paraguayan fabrics and a straw hat. To this may be added a wide belt and a neckerchief.
The girls however throw themselves into the dancing almost as soon as they can walk. Copying the steps of bigger sisters or any other school girls. By the time they enter school they will have picked up all the basic steps and twirls. Even if rhythm and timing need a little practice.
Their dress is a long colourful skirt and a light cotton top. Every girl has her skirt, which unless mother keeps away out of sight will be put on for a bit of dancing practice whenever a few bars of music are played.
The skirts all come with elasticated waistbands. Enabling even the smallest to quickly change in and out of costume. The elasticated waists also ensure that a skirt will last a girl for many years. So the family is not having to find money to purchase new ones.
The skirts should come almost down to the ground. Covering the bare feet the girls always dance in. Once the skirt starts to creep away from the ankles and towards the knees it is time to get a new one.
The costume itself is not age dependent. For both girls and boys the styles worn by the youngest are identical to those worn by the oldest. The clothes worn by a five year old child and a professional dancer differ only in size, quality and expense.
The school festivals where the traditional dancing can be displayed are very much the highlight of the school year. Every school in every corner of the country has its festivals.
The dancing is taken very seriously. For a week or even two before a festival the children are drilled in their dances. Practicing again and again. Everyone needs to know their places and steps for the big day.
Passing by a school in the days before a festival and the children are more likely to be seen out in the school yard than in the classrooms. There in groups they are rehearsed with their teachers.
Their teachers must teach them not just the steps. Also they need to know when to enter and exit, who dances with who and in what order they need to form up. Easy with a group of 15 years olds who have seen it all before but not quite so straight forward with a bunch of 5 year olds.
Once all the time for practice has passed a stage is prepared in the school yard to perform upon. The children begin to arrive long before the festival is due start. Some need a bit of last minute advice from their teachers but most are just too excited to wait.
Eventually by the time the sun has set family, friends and neighbours would have arrived and the festival can begin. Being Paraguay it will by now be somewhat later than the advertised starting time.
As the night progresses the children take it in turn to show their dances to the appreciate crowd. Each year group having its set of dances to perform. That on the whole every year the dances performed by particular year group tends to be the same does not matter at all to those watching.
All are simply enjoying the show. Proud to watch their children dance and remembering with pride when it was they who were up on the stage.
I have been to many school festivals and they are always very enjoyable nights. The entertainment is performed by the people for the people. Unadapted and unedited to meet the requirements of tourists.
As such as genuine and and unspoiled as culture can be. Something everyone visiting a country should seek out.
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